The guide

Wedding culture

What happens at a katb el-kitab, a henna night and a zaffa, and what to say.

Katb el-kitab, 16 December

The marriage contract. Before it, the jaha, a delegation of respected men from the groom's side, formally asks the bride's family for her hand, and everyone drinks the coffee once the answer is yes. Then a ma'zoun, an official of the Sharia court, draws up the contract with the bride's guardian and two witnesses, both of them say yes, and they are married from the moment it is signed.

The henna night, 16 December

For the women: coffee, sweets, singing and zaghareet, the ululation you will hear all week, while the bride's hands are painted with henna.

The zaffa, 18 December at 19:00

A procession that brings the couple in, with drums, horns and sometimes bagpipes. It lasts about half an hour, and it is loud. That is the point.

Dabke

A line dance with stamping steps, led by a lawweeh. Join in: hold hands, watch the feet next to you, stamp on the beat. Nobody is judging. Well, the aunties are, but kindly.

Etiquette

• Say mabrūk! (congratulations). The reply is Allah ybārek fīk, or fīki to a woman.
• There is no alcohol at the wedding itself; drinks are at the after-party.
• Eat with your right hand when sharing a platter.

Food you will meet

• Mansaf: lamb cooked in jameed (dried yoghurt) on rice. The national dish, on UNESCO’s list since 2022.
• Knafeh: warm cheese pastry soaked in syrup. Habibah downtown is the classic.
• Maqluba: the "upside-down" rice pot, flipped at the table.

Ten useful phrases

marHaba

hello

keefak? / keefik?

how are you? (to a man / a woman)

mnīH

fine

shukran

thank you

'afwan

you're welcome

law samaHt / law samaHti

please (to a man / a woman)

addēsh?

how much?

ana mish fāhim

I don't understand

mabrūk!

congratulations

ma'a s-salāmeh

goodbye

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